Argentina-Chile 2024

 Leaving Calafate, the Perrito Moreno Glacier, the Steppe and Patagonia we fly back to Buenos Aires.  The farewell dinner at a great steak restaurant upheld Argentina's beef reputation.   But there was still a little more to come before we left for airport on Thursday afternoon.  The Recoleta  cemetery was a must stop.  The elaborate crypts told a lot about the society.  Evita's mausoleum showed her importance and influence even today in Argentina despite her early death in 1952 at age 33.  Besides flowers. Other momentos such as a voting receipt had been left.  ( She is responsible for women's voting rights and mandatory voting.) Next we bussed to the Tigre Section. A delta area of.hundreds of small islands.  Life on the islands relies on boat services.  There are also several rowing clubs and we passed many skulls despite the wakes of larger boats. A large amusement park is adjacent. Then off to the airport.   See y...

 Grand finale!!! What a culmination to our Patagonia adventure. Spending the day immersed in a glacier experience.   Perrito Moreno Glacier is not the biggest or the oldest but the most accessible.  In the morning we had several hours to explore the multiple glacier overlooks on metal grid walkways.  Up close and personal a boat tour approached the glacier's 250 foot face. ( the Statue of Liberty is 150 tall).  The glacier is advancing 6 ft. /day which  provided us with multiple "calfing" observations.  We have never experienced this force and beauty of nature before.

  Betsy is doing great as you can see.  Yesterday she kept up with our hikes although we both chose the mid level  option.  Everyone toasted her at the end of our lunch in a gaucho themed restaurant. During our day long bus ride we saw the landscape change, observed wildlife on the pampas and even stopped to talk with a gaucho with his horseband dogs along the way. A game show on the plane was matched with a comic cooking class on the bus with our tour director Ani and our local guide Silvi.  As we approached El Calafate  the effects of the glacier were evident.  Tomorrow we will hike/boat to EL Perrito Grande glacier. .

 Most amazing-a place reputed to have clouds, rain, cold Temps and wind had none.  Clearing skies revealed the true majesty of this landscape. Even from our hotel views of the morain and the glacier were impressive. The Salto  Grande waterfall was the destination of our morning hike.  We visited the Torres Del Paine National Park rangers station and learned more about this 8th wonder of the natural world. All day we were surrounded by The towering Paine Massif. 

 A beautiful sunrise over the Staight of Magellan starts the day.  We stop for coffee on our way to Lago Grey. But then Betsy and I struck out for our own adventure to the closest town for medical care due to a tumble betsy took in town that morning when she bruised her wrist. As you can see xrays revealed several small fractures which the doctor felt should be immobilized with a cast until she could see her own doctor.    Then off we went to rejoin our group for dinner.  Many thanks to O.A.T.  and our tour director for their quick response to the situation by arranging a driver (Pilar and her Great Wall taxi ) to see us through.

 A funny thing happened on the plane from Puerto Mott to Punta Arenas, a port overlooking the Strait of Magellan. The stewardess announced a game show during flight.  Pasenger-Contestants answered questions about Chile's soccer team.  Soccer shirts were awarded.  See photo of guy in row behind me with his shirt and a big smile.  A great way to keep passengers happy.  On the way to the hotel we stop at the Museo Nao Victoria which had replicas of Magellan ship Victoria. Darwin's Beagle and the Ancud(a small shop used by Northern Chileans to settle here) we csn see Tierra del Fuego across the Strait of Magellan.  We also stop  to get a city view from an overlook.  The weather has been fantastic!

 Good weather continues.  The road unexpectedly ends on the beach.  Our bus drives along the shore to a small fishing boat.  Check out our picture and see if you can figure out how our ingenious guides helped us board the boat without a dock. We saw penguins! Humboldt and Megellanic.  Both will start migrating soon so we were lucky to see them and many sea birds.  Our lunch was catch of the day - black hake - at a surf side local restaurant.  Heading back to Puerto Varas we finally saw a clear view of the volcanos. 

 We spent most of the day experiencing life in Rilan, a small community on Chiloe Island.  Raul and Ilsa welcomed  us into their kitchen where hot rolls were just coming out of the oven.  We helped prepare a "curanto" the Chilean version of a low country boil-fresh local mussels, chicken, sausage and potatoes fixed 3 ways.  Large rhubarb leaves  separated the layers. While the meal cooked, Raul gave us a tour of his farm.  We were surprised to come upon life size mythological figures that Raul had carved taken from local folklore.  Our return trip included a short boat ride to see mussel and salmon farming.  A visit to a stilt house capped the day.

 Chilean flags are flying in front of our hotel as we head south to Chiloe Island.  We follow Darwin's trail in the rain and fog. Approaching the capital city of Castro we pass the "palafitos" colorful stilt houses on the coast built to withstand 30 foot tides.  In Castro we visit two UNESCO World heritage cite churches. What a view surprised us as we checked into our room.  Pisco sour time!

 Our morning's hike took us to Parque Nacional Vincente Perez Rosales. Rapids and rocks formed by glaciers could be viewed along the Petrohue Rapids where chutes of water flow over ancient lava. After lunch we visited the Conservatorio Musica y Bellas Artes del Sur (COMBA)  where students played for us - cello, violin, piano, guitar. We were hosted by a local family (parents and teenage daughters) for dinner which included a cooking lesson making empanadas and enjoyed lively conversation comparing family and life styles. As our visit ended our host Rodrigo played the guitar and his wife joined in song .